Two-thirds of the country's population live on Tongatapu, the largest island. First-time visitors will want to take one of the sightseeing tours to get an overall look at this flat but beautiful island. It's also quite possible to tour the island by rental car; the Tonga Visitors Bureau has maps.
The capital, Nuku'alofa, sits beside a lovely lagoon and is small enough to be seen on foot. It's a scruffy but charming little town, where you'll enjoy strolling along the scenic harbor. Among the sights in town are the Talamahu Market, Parliament building (it resembles a small early-1900s country schoolhouse), the Victorian Royal Palace and the Tongan National Center, one of the best craft and cultural centers in the South Pacific. Don't miss the demonstrations of making tapa, the traditional bark cloth—the Tongans excel in this difficult and time-consuming craft. Reserve some time for shopping.
The island offers intriguing historical sites unique in Polynesia. The 13th-century Ha'amonga Trilithon, about 20 mi/30 km east of Nuku'alofa, is made up of 16-ft/3-m coral columns, with a huge stone connecting the tops. It's vaguely reminiscent of Stonehenge, both in looks and assumed usage—it's thought to be a solar calendar (according to the king, who once climbed up there, various notches on top point directly to the rising sun on the shortest day of the year). Also on Tongatapu (about 13 mi/21 km east of Nuku'alofa) you'll find the ninth-century Langi—terraced tombs of the ancient chiefs rising as high as 12 ft/4 m.
The island offers diverse and intriguing natural sights as well. In the Kolovai area, 11 mi/18 km west of Nuku'alofa, scan the trees for the sacred "flying foxes." They're actually large but harmless fruit bats now protected by the royal family (their population of about 600 and their rain-forest habitat is threatened). There are several caves on the island, including Hina's Caves, which are decorated with religious statues and candles. There are deep, clear freshwater pools in the caves where you can swim among the stalagmites—it's wise to take a waterproof flashlight.
Oholei Beach is also great for swimming (it's about 12 mi/20 km from town, near the airport). The area called Mu'a is pretty (it's east of town near the tombs, where Captain Cook landed on his 1777 visit to the islands), and the blowholes at Houma shoot water more than 60 ft/18 m into the air under the right conditions (south of Nuku'alofa, along the cliffs). This is a beautiful spot to picnic and explore. We recommend the Hufangalupe drive along the ocean to see the natural bridge, spectacular scenery and beaches. If you're interested in snorkeling, definitely visit Ha'atafu Beach, a marine reserve at the westernmost point of the island, where visibility is superb.
Pangaimotu, 'Atata and Fafa are three islets just off the harbor, reached easily by boat for day trips (recommended for Sundays, when everything is closed). Offering excellent beaches, snorkeling, windsurfing and coral viewing, the islands have adequate accommodations and good restaurants.
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