Nicosia (pronounced nick-oh-SEE-ah; also called Lefkosia in Greek) is the capital of the Republic of Cyprus. The old city, which is surrounded by a 16th-century wall built by the Venetians, is filled with museums and fine old churches that reveal the depth of the island's history and culture. The newer parts of this inland capital are inescapably ugly, but Laiki Yitonia, a carefully restored section of the early walled city that's filled with antiques and crafts shops, still retains an old-world feel.
To put ancient and contemporary events into perspective, be sure to see the Cyprus Museum, the National Struggle Museum, the Folk Art Museum and the State Collection of Contemporary Art. Don't neglect the Byzantine Museum and Art Gallery, which has a fine collection of icons, or the Archaeological Museum, which is rated one of the finest museums of the Middle East—its highlights include artifacts from the Sanctuary of Ayia Irini in northwestern Cyprus. And for insight into the importance of religion in Cypriot culture, step into the beautiful Cathedral of St. John and the Tripioti Church (both built in the 17th century) and the 15th-century Chrysaliniotissa Church.
The Nicosia Municipal Arts Centre (in Famagusta Gate, part of the old Venetian walls) and the old city's Municipal Museum focus solely on the history and accomplishments of the capital city and its citizens. In shops off Ledra Street, the main shopping boulevard, coppersmiths, furniture makers and goldsmiths work surrounded by their wares. Locally made items can also be found at the Cyprus Handicrafts Center.
Several monasteries and churches in the area are worth a visit: the Monastery of St. Herakleidios in Politiko (the saint's skull and hand bones are kept in a silver reliquary), the Machairas Monastery of Machairas and the 10th-century Church of St. Barnabas and St. Hilarion in Peristerona. Plan two days for Nicosia, but add another if you're seeing monasteries.
Note: At the end of Ledra Street is the Attila (Green) Line, a mass of concrete, barbed wire and sandbags that separates the two Cypruses (above the wall, you can see the tops of minarets and the Turkish flag). This is one of nine checkpoints to cross the border to Turkish Nicosia and Turkish Cyprus. EU citizens do not need a passport to cross into Turkish Cyprus (an identity card is sufficient). Citizens of non-EU countries do need a passport, however. The border crossing is open 6 am-midnight, and tourists can stay overnight up to 90 days on the Turkish side. Travelers who arrive on Cyprus on the Turkish side, generally by boat from Turkey, may have trouble crossing the border into Greek Cyprus. Border crossings in either direction are quick and simple. On the Turkish side, directly after immigration is a helpful and friendly tourist information office with maps.
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