Mandalay, Myanmar, the famous city of just more than a million people, has suffered from several major fires that destroyed many older buildings. However, Mandalay Hill is intact and still worth climbing via its 1,700 stairs. There are beautiful temples and shrines every 100 steps or so—you can also go up by minivan if the steps seem too strenuous. At the top, visitors have a great view of the city and the Ayeyarwady River.
At the bottom of the hill is the amazing Kuthodaw Pagoda (729 small temples, each containing a marble slab with writings from the Buddhist canon, surround a central pagoda—the complex has been called the "world's largest book"). Also nearby are the ruins of the once-huge Royal Palace. Most of the palace was destroyed in an air raid during World War II, but a restoration project has rebuilt many of the former structures. The palace is now partially occupied as military fort, but reconstructions of the royal areas are open to visitors bearing a city combo ticket.
Another Buddhist temple worth visiting is the Maha Muni Pagoda, which has a large golden Buddha, perhaps the most sacred image in all of Myanmar. Many visitors also enjoy trips to the Jade Market (there is an entrance fee) to watch vendors and jewelers shape, sell and haggle over one of the country's most valuable commodities.
Mandalay itself is a dirty and dusty town with some areas that have changed little throughout the past century: Riverboats, trishaws and other muscle-powered forms of transportation predominate. Go down by the riverside in the late afternoon for the amazing spectacle of water buffalo being worked to bring logs onto the bank. A couple of hours could also be spent in the sprawling Zegyo Market—you probably won't find anything of particular interest to buy there, but just absorbing the atmosphere and observing the sheer size of the place can make for an interesting visit. Mandalay is a must-see, though one night is generally enough for most visitors.
After you've seen the city, we highly recommend a trip on the Ayeyarwady River, which can be one of your most memorable experiences in Myanmar. A boat ride from Mandalay to Bagan (12-14 hours) makes for a beautiful journey. You can also make the trip on a "fast" (nine-hour) ferry. Pagodas and ruins line the shores. Along the way, passengers wade out to meet the ship, carrying anything from a bag of rice to a live pig tied to a pole. (In the past, you and the pig would be fighting for deck space: Today, tourists are assigned deck chairs.) Plan to make this trip in the "wet" season—otherwise, you risk being stuck on a sandbar for hours, if not days, on end. Mandalay is 350 mi/565 km north of Yangon.
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