Kosrae, an absolutely stunning island, has lush, rain-forested central mountains sloping down to white-sand beaches and mangrove forests. As gorgeous as it is, though, Kosrae is not for everyone. Although there are comfortable accommodations and a whole host of outdoor activities, everything moves at a slow pace, and there is little in the way of "entertainment." The island gets few visitors, making it all the more attractive for the adventurous and those who like the outdoors. You'll find excellent diving, good fishing and, often, good surf. Kayaking is gaining popularity as a sport, too. And while you're there, be sure to keep an eye out for the enormous monitor lizards (related to Komodo dragons).
For the underwater adventurer, Kosrae is paradise. More than 50 dive sites have been identified by local diving pioneers. Each has been marked with a buoy to prevent improper anchoring, leaving Kosrae's reefs pristine and ripe for exploration. Beautiful hard coral gardens give way to plunging walls. Sharks, dogtooth tuna, barracuda schools and other exciting ocean citizens can all be encountered.
Back on land, a good paved road connects the airport to Tafunsak, Leluh (the main village) and Tofol (the administrative center), but beyond there, the road to Utwe and Walung remains unpaved. In the center of the island is Mount Finkol (2,065 ft/630 m), which forms an impressive backdrop to just about any picture. Those seeking isolation and a glimpse into traditional island life will want to take an outrigger canoe or kayak through the channels that run among the mangroves to the village of Walung (good beaches and friendly people). On Lelu Island, a tiny islet linked to Kosrae by a causeway, are the ruins of former kings' residences. The 800-year-old ruins include tombs, canals and walls. Menke is another fascinating archaeological site, reached by hiking up a beautiful valley from a point near Walong. You'll also see lots of Japanese war material—it's scattered throughout the islands.
Religion plays a large part in island life. On Sunday, most of the stores and even some of the restaurants, are closed, and no diving is permitted. Swimming in the ocean is allowed, however, as long as you wear a shirt over your bathing suit. And if you're on Kosrae on Sunday, try to attend one of the large congregational churches (there's one in every village) to hear the choir music: Kosraean church music is rightly famous throughout the Pacific. There is a singing festival at Christmas. 350 mi/565 km southeast of Pohnpei.
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