One of our favorite spots in Kenya is the island and city of Lamu, 165 mi/265 km northeast of Mombasa. Lamu can be reached by boat from the airport on nearby Manda Island.
First established in 1300, Lamu is the oldest Muslim settlement in East Africa, and still today seems to be living about 500 years in the past: There are no cars—only donkey carts and narrow streets. The women dress in black, the men in white, and they speak an ancient dialect of Arabic. They ply the waters in Arab dhows, square-sailed boats whose design has not changed in centuries.
The downside of this turn-back-the-clock atmosphere is the turn-back-the-clock sanitation levels—it's somewhat smelly and dirty (you'll notice the open sewers).
There are few real sights, but as you walk around you'll see numerous mosques and nicely carved doors on some buildings that were built by the wealthy Arabian traders. The only things recognizable as tourist attractions are the local historical museum, Peponi Beach and (for some) the Donkey Sanctuary, a rest home for weary pack animals.
Lamu's real strength, however, is its distinctive look and feel and friendly people. Accommodations are steadily improving on the island, and some of the old houses have been lovingly restored to their former glory and decorated with antiques and four-poster beds. For a family or group it is recommended to hire out a whole house for a few days. These come with your own cook, and on Lamu it is possible to buy the delectable seafood directly from the fishermen.
We recommend a couple of days' stay in Lamu to get a fascinating look at a completely different side of Kenya.
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