Market day in Otavalo is a must for any traveler to Ecuador. Every Saturday, Amerindians from the surrounding villages gather to sell produce, livestock, woolen goods and other handicrafts. The market is well known by tour groups, so don't go expecting to be the only tourist, but do go: Otavalo is a unique Ecuadorian experience.
The people are a sight in themselves. The men of the area dress in traditional white pants, blue or gray ponchos and felt hats, and have their hair braided in long pigtails; the women wear white blouses with black sashes, skirts and lots of gold-colored necklaces. You're likely to see other distinctive outfits as well as people from surrounding regions who also go to Otavalo to buy and sell goods.
There are several components to market day, some geared to the local inhabitants, some to the many travelers who visit Otavalo. It all begins at dawn, when the animal market gets under way at the edge of town. This is the most interesting part of the market activities: As the sun comes up, the large, vacant lot is transformed into a place of squealing pigs and lowing cattle and hundreds of Amerindians milling about as they size up the merchandise or try to make a sale.
By 9 am, the activity moves to the hundreds of handicraft booths spread through the downtown. The center of the action is the Plaza de los Poncho, but vendors extend for several blocks in all directions. Almost any craft item produced in Ecuador (and many from elsewhere in Latin America) can be found in Otavalo, but the specialties are the colorful textiles (blankets, ponchos, sweaters, tapestries and handbags) produced in the area. Other good bets are musical instruments (charangos and zamponas—pan pipes), ceramics and hats (Panama and felt). Be aware that pickpockets and petty thieves are active in the market—keep a close accounting of your valuables.
Plan on getting to the handicraft market early (it's best to overnight in the area and arrive before 10 am, when the tour groups descend on the place and the market gets very crowded). Be sure to bargain. Start at about 20%-25% below the initial asking price and go from there. Haggling is possible even if you have trouble with Spanish numbers: Bring a paper and pen to write the figures down. (Many of the vendors carry calculators to make the process easier.) If you can't make it to Otavalo on Saturday, you'll find a smaller selection of craft booths on other days, as well, especially on Wednesday. A large number of permanent craft shops and galleries are also located on the downtown streets near the Plaza de los Poncho.
If you still have energy after shopping, stroll through the food markets (one near the train station, one at the intersection of Calle Jaramillo and Juan Montalvo). Like the animal market, these are attended more by the local people than by travelers, but that's what makes them such interesting places to visit. You're likely to see women balancing baskets of produce on their heads, lots of live chickens and tables full of colorful foods—whole pigs, exotic fruits, piles of grains and vegetables.
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