The capital of the state of Parana is an appealing, well-functioning clean city 420 mi/675 km southwest of Rio de Janeiro that is finally getting the attention it deserves. Settled by Germans, Poles and Italians, Curitiba is usually a way station on the highway from Sao Paulo to Iguacu Falls or points south.
A model for urban planners throughout the world, Curitiba features Lagoa da Ordem, a nicely preserved historic neighborhood with cobblestoned streets; pleasant parks with many bike paths; and several museums (we liked the exterior of the art-nouveau Museu Paraense, though its exhibits were less memorable than its facade). The pretty Botanical Gardens are also worth a visit. Curitiba offers excellent Italian, Japanese and Brazilian restaurants and active nightlife that includes local jazz and rock bands. But perhaps the biggest surprise is Brazilian drivers who stop at red lights.
Unless you plan a day trip to Vila Velha, one night in Curitiba is adequate. A not-to-be missed day trip is the 65-mi/105-km train ride to the town of Paranagua through lovely mountain scenery.
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