The town of Cajamarca, 360 mi/580 km northwest of Lima, attracts travelers who are interested in the history of the Spanish conquest of Peru, who would like to soak in a historic thermal bath or who are looking for an Andean city that doesn't have the tourism hoopla of Cusco.
In 1532, the army of Inca emperor Atahualpa (at war with his half-brother Huascar) was camped at Los Banos del Inca, the nearby thermal baths. Francisco Pizarro's tiny band of about 160 men attacked them with cannon and cavalry—terrors the Inca had never before experienced. The Spaniards massacred the Inca army and captured Atahualpa, who was held for ransom.
In exchange for his liberty, Atahualpa agreed—so the story goes—to fill a large room (22 ft/7 m by 17 ft/5 m) with gold up to his outstretched arms, and twice that amount of silver. Unwilling to keep his part of the bargain, Pizarro ordered Atahualpa strangled. He kept the gold, too. See for yourself how much gold was necessary: El Cuarto del Rescate (the Ransom Room) still stands—the only Incan edifice that has remained intact.
Cajamarca is very popular with Peruvians as a holiday resort, and interesting local handicrafts abound in the market. It's also known for its Carnival celebrations.
Nearby sights include Cumbe Mayo (petroglyphs and pre-Incan irrigation canals), 13 mi/20 km southwest of town, and Cerro Santa Apolonia (a hill with the carved stone Seat of the Inca—the ruler is said to have reviewed his army from there). Plan for two nights in the area.
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