Set in a verdant, mountainous region in central Ecuador, 80 mi/130 km south of Quito, Banos de Agua Santa (or simply Banos) is a wonderful place to relax—if the nearby Tungurahua volcano is not erupting. Banos has been evacuated numerous times in recent history because the volcano was ejecting ash and rocks, damaging surrounding farms and businesses. Scientists say additional eruptions are possible; check current conditions when planning to visit the area.
But don't let that deter you from this beautiful destination. Among the area's draws are several natural springs, which give the town its name (baths). Several places around town offer a chance for a good, long soak (be forewarned: the water ranges from ice cold to uncomfortably hot). The water looks murky, but this is only because of mineral content. La Piscina de la Virgen has the hottest water, and Piscinas Las Modernas offers toys and waterslides for children. Swim caps are required to enter the pools, but they are available for sale all over town and at the baths when you check in.
The lovely scenery around Banos is the area's other main attraction, and there are several ways to enjoy it. Good hiking trails are located in the hills above the town (check locally about the safety of the routes, especially if you're not traveling in a group—some robberies have been reported). Mountain biking and horseback riding are also popular. The mostly downhill bike ride from Banos to Puyo (45 mi/70 km), known as the Ruta de Las Cascadas or Highway of the Waterfalls with more than a dozen waterfalls along the route, is especially popular. One clever option is to enjoy the downhill bike ride to the jungle town of Puyo and then take a bus back uphill to Banos.
White-water rafting is also possible on several rivers in the area, all tributaries of the Pastaza. There are many options for every conceivable outdoor adventure from climbing or swinging through the air to mountain biking to ziplining. Plenty of tour operators can help you arrange these excursions.
Banos is also another good springboard town for Amazon adventures, with a host of tour operators arranging trips to the rain forest, as well as nearby volcanoes such as El Altar, Sangay or Chimborazo. The active volcano Tungurahua is often off-limits, but some treks might bring you relatively closer for a better view, if clouds and fog don't obscure it.
If you don't want to stray far from Banos, the scenic Puente San Francisco, where bungie jumpers leap off the bridge, or treks to the nearby waterfalls can be made by horseback, taxi or even on foot.
Famed Ecuadoran guitar-maker Jacinto Guevara practices his craft in Banos. (Another village known for its guitar-makers is San Bartolome, 130 mi/210 km south of Banos, 20 mi/30 km southeast of Cuenca.)
If you get a chance, visit Banos in October and December, when the streets come alive during the town's two religious festivals: The first honors the Virgin of Holy Water (the namesake of the local church, Santuario de Nuestra Senora de Agua Santa); the second celebrates the date the town was appointed seat of its canon. The fiestas are a splash of music, dancing, processions and fireworks.
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