Barging Through Burgundy: Week Two Of Our Adventure
Barging Through Burgundy: From Dole To Dijon & The Workings Of Canals
As I write this post, our tiny barge Daniele is leaving Dijon and headed toward the Saône river. The journey along the Canal de Bourgogne will take us just under two days. We'll have many opportunities to step ashore for walks or bike rides on either side of the canal.
The locks, all 21 of them between Dijon and the Saône, serve not only to transport Daniele but also to allow us to step off and on board. The way it works is that Daniele enters the lock, with the lock's front doors closed. Essentially, the barge is entering a basin, similar to lowering yourself into a bathtub. Once Daniele is positioned inside, the lock's rear doors close. Slowly the water level inside the lock lowers (like draining a tub) and the barge along with it. This is the process for traveling downriver – or down the canal. It works in reverse going upriver. Once the water level inside the lock equalizes with the canal ahead, the front doors of the lock open. Daniele exits and voila, we're on to the next lock.
The distance between locks ranges a third of a mile to about a mile and a half. Mileage between locks is posted inside Daniele so that we can calculate how far we want to walk.
This morning, our skilled captain passed through the first lock without bumping the sides of the barge, a remarkable feat considering that the barge is nearly as wide and as long as the lock. It's a tight fit to say the least.
Transiting each lock takes up to 30 minutes. There are 21 locks along the 30-kilometer (18-mile) stretch between Dijon and the Saône river.
Though Daniele is capable of nearly 20 knots per hour, her pace in the canal is about walking speed. There are escargot that can outpace the barge. Thus, we can easily keep ahead the barge on foot or on a bike between locks.
Despite the slow speed, the pace of the barge is one of the appeals of this type of travel. Life is relaxed, and we can be as active or inactive as we like for the most part. On the many barge trips I have hosted, I've not heard a single complaint of the pace being too slow.
The 242-kilometer (150-mile) canal itself is fascinating. Construction started in 1775, a year before 13 colonies declared independence from its British overlords. The canal was finished in 1832, completing the link between the English Channel and the Mediterranean, via the rivers Seine and the Yonne to the Saône and Rhône.
Were it not for the canals, there would be no barge trips in France. The canals are to barging what Zodiacs are to expedition cruises. Both allow intimate encounters and exploration.
You'll see few, if any, cargo barges on the stretch between Dijon and the Saône. Nor will you see many on the other French canals. Railroads, rivers and highways are much more efficient at transporting goods. Still, the French government maintains the canals for touristic purposes, through the navigation authority known as Voies navigables de France. Those who have experienced barge travel are grateful to the French government for maintaining the canals.
It has been a beautiful trip so far, and we are now on the second of back-to-back barge trips. I stopped my last post as we were approaching Dole during the first barge trip from Besancon to Dijon.
While docked in Dole, we went out for a three-hour tour with the English-speaking guide Pascal. Dole is a beautiful city with many pedestrian bridges (our cruise manager referred to the city as Little Venice), ancient limestone buildings, an interesting history and lots of charm.
One thing caught my eye immediately. Dole is along a cross-Europe bike route that runs for 2,000 kilometers between Nantes and Budapest. I'd love to pedal it while I am still able.
Along the Rue du Prelot, we walked across a Roman bridge dating from the 12th century. The old Roman road ran between Chalon sur Saone and Besancon.
The symbol of the city is the perched cat, so called for Marcel Aymé, whose book, if I understand correctly, is about farm animals (including cats) that spoke to children. Ayme was born in Burgundy (Joigny) and spent some of his childhood in Dole.
A Sunny Afternoon By The Saone
In the late afternoon, while docked in Saint-Jean-de-Losne, we stepped ashore to play a few rounds of pétanque. The guys were pitted against the gals for the match. The object of the game is to bowl steel balls as close to the "target ball" as possible. Ricard was offered but few imbibed, choosing wine or champagne or other spirts instead. After several rounds, the score was 6-6. It came down to me against Patty. She won by a measly half an inch, not that I am holding a grudge. We'll get the gals next week when the rematch is scheduled at the same place on Sunday.
Armand's creations have been another highlight of the trip. Dining on CroisiEurope is always top notch, but the chefs on the barges take it to another level. His BaBa Rum, pictured above, was a big hit, though a raspberry cake he prepared a few days later was an even bigger hit.
In the photo above, the round balls in the trees are mistletoe. Though beautiful in a Dr. Seuss sort of way, the Mistletoe, a parasite, is killing the trees. As I end this post, we have traveled only about 18 kilometers (11 miles) from Quai Nicolas Rolin, where we started our journey this morning at 9 a.m. Google Maps tells me that I could pedal back to the Quai in an hour if I wanted. Rather, I spent the day writing and riding alongside the canal.
Last night, Armand serenaded us and said that we would need to sing for him to earn our lunch. We did so today, with everyone accompanying Louis Armstrong to What A Wonderful Life, and though the world may have its trouble, it is indeed a wonderful life.
P.S. I used to publish photos of people, fellow passengers and crew. I refrain from that as much as possible now out of respect for their privacy. People, however, make the journey, as they have done on this trip.
Article ID: ART5066
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