Lying 110 mi/180 km north of Damascus in a rich agricultural region, Hama is one of the most pleasant and laid-back cities in Syria. The main attractions are large wooden waterwheels, called norias, that lift water from the Orontes River and transfer it to aqueducts. Several are conveniently located in a downtown park. The sound of the waterwheels, which resembles the slow drone of a mechanical weeder, is hypnotic.
Another site not to be missed is the lovely 18th-century Azem Palace (built by the same family of Ottoman governors that built the Azem Palace in Damascus). Walks through Hama's Old City and the souks to the south are also enjoyable pastimes.
Hama is a perfect base for making day trips to such places as Krac des Chevaliers, Apamea, the Dead Cities, Qalaat Salah al Din and Qasr ibn Wardan (a Byzantine defensive complex with palace and church. Allow a half-day to tour Hama.
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